This is Momo the dog. He leads a pretty amazing life. traveling, modeling, bro-ing out with his best friend. And all while looking so stylish in black and white. Who wouldn't want to be this dog? There are 500K Instagram followers for @andrewkapp and Momo. Did I mention Momo has a book out? Andrew is a professional and started a cool company called Up Fest at http://andrewknapp.com/ which is all musically inclined entrepreneurial awesomeness. Needless to say, his wanderlust combined with artistic suave and his lovely partner are a great visual journey. It's an Instagram account that makes you feel cool and included. What are the chances? A+.
Do we even need to introduce the above? This is one of the most famous dribbling rescues, Toast. Her Instagram is entitled @ToastMeetsWorld. She's always wearing a pleasant and happy expression and, let's be real, we all wish we had her hair. We may also, as dog owners, be a tiny bit envious of her packing abilities, transportation ease-wise. She just seems to magically park, presto, cute! We featured her bag here and since she's a rescue, she stands for a great cause; Adopt Don't Shop. Approximately 340K followers for this little lady.
We honestly had trouble choosing the pictures to feature for @ChloeKardoggian (72K followers). Never have most people seen a Chihuahua with so many facial expressions. She's a tortilla of spunky, silly, specialness. My Monday slump picker-upper, my extra smile for the bad hair day. She's pretty old and she's obviously still got a knack for sarcasm so she's easily a top pick. So much spunk. I just. can't.
Whats up #dogsquad. This is @BoogiethePug and his brother Marcelo. Did you know they have 2 OTHER BROTHERS?! A cat, evil, and a turtle! I'm just sprinkling the secret knowledge. It's featured in secret places throughout the Instagram account. One of the fastest growing BarkBox celebrity Instagrams, these guys cuddle like true pigs in blankets. And I can tell you from first-hand experience that Boogie snorts like a little piggle. In a cute way. They're both rescues and in case you haven't noticed yet that's a license to have your tongue hanging out like you think it's gonna get you bacon. Let's not even discuss Boogie's constant wear of concern and universal thoughtfulness. True #pugLIFE 4eva. 11K followers today.
This was one of the first Instagram accounts I ever followed. I got lucky! @Tunameltsmyheart is amazing, and freaking hilarious. Sometimes he looks like a Simpsons character, sometimes a cute little elementary school student, and sometimes a tired and slobbery grandpa. His cleft palate brings attention to common issues with show-dogs and as you can see it is actually awesome and rad! He's unbelievably sweet and adores being a ham for the camera. His costumes put Broadway to shame and he has portraits by more artists than the Mona Lisa has copies. One day we shall meet. Its a bucket list thing. 1.6MM followers. Just sayin'.
The return of warm weather brings with it both the excitement of outdoor activity and for some, the difficulty of allergens. These are two very big seasonal changes for many dogs, and you can help them through this fun yet overwhelming time of year.
Seasonal allergies come in two forms for dogs; atopic allergies and flea allergies.
Atopic allergies are those of inhaled allergens such as dust, pollen, and mold, often causing reactions on the skin and in the respiratory system. Flea allergies are very common, caused by fleas’ saliva when a dog is bitten.
Luckily, flea allergies can be relatively easily prevented with flea and tick products recommended by your veterinarian. Atopic allergies can be somewhat more difficult to treat, but there are several different options. Consult with your veterinarian to figure out your dog’s specific allergies and how to manage them. Some environmental factors such as dust and mold can be managed with regular cleaning and an air filtration unit. Other allergens like pollen are unfortunately more difficult to avoid, but other management options exist as well. Giving your dog frequent baths and wiping their paws, face, and ears after walks keeps them more free of allergens that stick to their body, alleviating itching and scratching symptoms. For serious conditions, you can consult your veterinarian about options such as medication or immunotherapy.
Know the feeling after the first gym session in a long time? Dogs can get sore and need to build up their stamina for exercise as well! Even though it’s tempting to take long runs on the first nice days, your dog may need some preparation first.
Start slow and with short exercise sessions, build up their exercise as their endurance increases. Remember to vary their types of exercise and walking routes to keep it exciting, and always bring or know where to find clean water.
Exercise your dog depending on their individual needs. Consider their breed, age, size, and physical condition. Keep in mind, most of our dogs were not made for the climate they live in!
* Always remember to let your dogwalkers know your dogs’ exercise needs and restrictions!
* If the hot weather makes it more difficult for your dog to exercise outside for any reason, supplement their exercise with indoor activities like games, puzzles, and treat toys.
Skateboarding, Biking, and Rollerblading
These activities can be dangerous to do with dogs unless they are properly trained for them. If your dog is easily distracted or likes to sniff around a lot outside, odds are that they will get distracted or stop to sniff even if you are attached to them and moving on wheels! You can train your dog to pay attention to you by rewarding them with small treats for looking forward or at you, for walking in the spot you’d like them to, and for not pulling. Let them have a sniff and potty break just before going biking or skating with them, and train a cue for them to know when it is time to start and jog politely beside you!
Food puzzles and other working toys are crucial assets to any dog-owner. The benefits of toys that dogs have to work to complete (and eat) are incredible. The time and energy that your dog spends on these are great for the both of you, and successful puzzle playtime builds your dog’s confidence and intelligence! Working toys/puzzles are also extremely useful, if not necessary, in curbing separation anxiety and preparing your dog to enjoy time alone. There are many options; Kongs, puzzle boards, Busy Buddies, etc. Many of these toys can actually be created for free with items you probably already have! Here are some simple DIY projects you can make to entertain, train, and improve the life of your furry friend.
Difficulty - Easy
Upside-Down: Scatter kibble in between the raised bumps and your dog will have to nudge the food around from all angles to finish their meal/snack
Upside-Up: Place treats or food in the tins and place tennis balls (or similar) on top so your dog has to remove the balls to get the food.
Difficulty - Easy to Hard, depending on intricacy
This type of toy can be made with just about anything: water bottles, milk jugs, plastic jars, PVC pipe, even shoeboxes. Cut or drill several holes in your item, making sure the holes are just a bit larger than the treats you intend to put in. You can increase the difficulty by putting some empty toilet paper or paper towel rolls inside for the treats to roll around.
A version of this can be made with a tennis ball if you cut a slit or drill holes and fill with treats.
Socks and Old Clothes/Cloths
Difficulty - Medium
Fill or wrap a sock or piece of old clothing with food or treats. Layer more socks/clothes around it by either loosely tying or rolling up the pieces together.
Boxes (in boxes in boxes in boxes!)
Difficulty - Hard
Hide some treats in small boxes (shoe-boxes, jewelry boxes, etc.) and hide the boxes inside one another. This make get a little messy if your dog decides to tear up any of the boxes, but you can place lids on lightly and turn boxes without lids upside-down to make the nudging and discovering easier.
Difficulty - Easy
Freeze broth, peanut butter, water with treats, or anything you’d like in an ice cube tray and your dog will be busy and happy, especially on a hot day!
Have fun with it! you can combine most of these ideas together. For example, tie a couple socks around a dispenser that you have made, place something frozen in your muffin tins, or have sock and dispenser prizes inside the boxes.
Don’t forget to always monitor your dog with new toys to make sure they don’t ingest anything inedible.
Many of us are all too familiar with a bit of seasonal depression during the cold months, and many dogs unfortunately experience this as well! Dogs that are active and enjoy the outdoors can especially have a hard time in the winter as their walks shorten and their socialization time diminishes. To keep your dog happy and healthy during this time it is important to give them plenty of exercise and mental stimulation indoors!
Space in the city is obviously limited, but if you have or can arrange the space for an indoor game of fetch, your dog will be very grateful! Tug is a great indoor game for small spaces, but make sure you play properly and are exchanging the toy for treats intermittently. Doggy puzzles and working toys can be great ways for your pet to spend some mental and physical energy on their own, here are some recommended products.
Remember to alter your dog’s meals if they have eaten a lot during playtime, or alternatively, feed them their meals IN working toys.
A great winter ‘outing’ for you and your pet is at Water4Dogs, where your pup can take fun, confidence-boosting indoor swimming lessons.
The Scoop on Salt!
Sidewalk and road salt can be harmful to even the toughest of paws. The danger comes from the toxic chemicals often added to them, as well as salt’s abrasive and water-thirsty characteristics. Walking on salt can cause paws to dry and crack, and ingesting it can be harmful or even fatal. Before your dog gets a chance to lick their paws clean after their walk, wipe their feet off with a moist towel or grooming wipe, and don’t forget in between the toes! Salt stuck between toes for an extended period can lead to an infection.
You can take preventative measures to protect your pooch from harm from the salt! There is a wealth of great dog boots that come in all sizes, you can find them here on our store. To get your dog used to wearing them, put all four boots on and just have your dog follow you around while you hand them treats, some positive motivation will get them going! Another great preventative option is paw wax, which may be an easier adjustment for some dogs than boots. If your dog is having a lot of trouble or is hating their boots, contact a trainer. Also, if you are one of the city-dwellers lucky enough to have an area that needs to be salted, use a non-toxic salt that is safe for dogs! Dogs should never consume any snow that has salt or ice-melting agents in it. Many dogs enjoy eating fresh and unsalted snow, though be careful because excessive consumption can lead to vomiting.
Additionally, many dogs can greatly benefit from a coat in the cold. Dogs with short or thin hair, small dogs, and elderly dogs especially require the warmth when the temperature goes down. An ideal coat will have a snug fit and a slot for the leash if your dog wears a back-attaching harness. Pullovers and coats with sleeves or zippers can be difficult and uncomfortable for some dogs.
The holidays can be stressful times for both humans and canines, but they don’t have to be! Here are some tips on keeping both you and your pet safe and sane during the holidays.
Food (and what dogs may think is food!)
What are our dogs to make of all the new and strange things that appear for only a few weeks once a year? We all know our their definitions of “edible” differ from our own…, and while it may seem obvious that you should keep your dogs from having the opportunity to eat tinsel or confetti, the holiday season can bring out new plants and foods that can be dangerous as well. Popular plants such as poinsettias, holly, and mistletoe, can cause serious gastrointestinal upset if ingested, and should be kept out of dogs’ reach. Caffeine, chocolate, and anything sweetened with xylitol, are also dangerous to the health of our furry friends. Try not to keep food or drinks (especially alcoholic) on low tables, but if you must, watch your dog and replace the glasses with plastic cups so when (not if!) your dog tips it over it won't shatter!
It is important to keep similar eating and exercise habits for your dog, even if our own may change drastically during the cold, food-heavy season. Fortunately, you can supplement (not replace) some of your dog’s typical outdoor exercise time with indoor games and toys. Working toys like kongs, doggy puzzles, and chew sticks, can keep your dog’s mind and mouth busy and working as well as provide mental stimulation. If your dog’s walks get shorter and shorter as the weather gets colder, reward them when they come back inside by playing a game of fetch or tug for the remainder of the time you would have walked them had it been nicer weather.
Some of us visit friends or relatives and some of us host these visitors during the holidays. Either way, we must accommodate for our dogs, whether it be keeping our dog safe and happy during a party or finding a responsible dog-sitter. It is important to train polite greetings, but don’t just train your dog to be polite to visitors, train your visitors to be polite to your dog! Let them know what your dog does and doesn’t like, and let them know anything else they should do to keep the dog safe (i.e. allergies, food allowed, child-control, etc.) Always make sure your dog has a safe and quiet relaxation space to retreat to during the hubbub if they so decide.
Health and Safety
If your dog is a little clumsy, or perhaps likes to investigate new objects with their mouth, it is extremely important to keep them away from precarious and dangerous situations.
Recommended Reading for New Puppy Parents
Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson
The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell
Puppy Savvy: The Pocket Guide to Raising Your Dog Without Going Bonkers
by Barbara Shumannfang
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
The Puppy Primer, 2nd Edition by Patricia McConnell
Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr. Sophia Yin
24 hour emergency care in Manhattan NYC for dogs -
Animal Medical Center (AMC)
510 E 62nd St 10021
ASPCA Poison Control Center
Fifth Avenue Veterinary Specialists
One West Fifth Avenue (15th St. bet. 5th & 6th ave.)
Park East Animal Hospital Inc
52 E 64th St #1 10021
Westside Veterinary Center
220 West 83rd Street, New York, NY 10024
24 hour emergency transportation in Manhattan -
CHELSEA NYC vets for dogs -
Animal Allergy & Dermatology Specialists
32 West 25th Street, New York, NY 10010
Animal Hospital of Chelsea
164 W 21st St, Suite 101, New York, NY 10011
Downtown Veterinary Clinic
148 9th Ave 10011-4904
Heart of Chelsea Animal Hospital
257 W 18th St 10011-4502
Lexington Veterinary Group
32 W 25th St 10010-2703
West Chelsea Veterinary Hospital
203 10th Ave 10011-4716
WEST VILLAGE NYC vets for dogs -
Abingdon Square Veterinary Clinic
107 Greenwich Ave 10014-1904
Abingdon Square Veterinary Clinic
107 Greenwich Ave 10014-1904
West Village Veterinary Hospital
75 8th Avenue
New York, NY 10014
Tribecca / Wall Sreet / Battery Park City vets for dogs:
Tribeca Soho Animal Hospital
5 Lispenard Street
New York, NY 10013
Battery Park Veterinary Hospital
21 South End Avenue
New York, NY 10280
Worth Street Veterinary
77 Worth Street
New York, NY, 10013
upper east side UES NYC vets for dogs -
All Pets Veterinarian
1737 Second Ave. (bet. 89th & 90th st.)
Animal Clinic of New York
1623 First Ave. (bet. 84th and 85th st.)
Animal Medical Center (AMC)
510 E 62nd St 10021
Carnegie Hill Veterinarians
201 E 89, New York, NY 10128
Center For Veterinary Care
236 E 75th St 10021-2911
Lenox Hill Veterinarians
204 E 76th St 10021-2930
Manhattan Veterinary Group
240 East 80th Street, New York, NY 10021
Mercy Veterinary Hospital PC
134 East 82nd Street, New York, NY 10028
Metropolitan Animal Hospital
1737 2nd Avenue Frnt, New York, NY 10128
New York Veterinary Hospital
150 E 74th St 10021-3528
University Animal Hospital
354 E 66th St 10021
VCA Manhattan Veterinary Group
240 E 80th St 10021
Veterinary Internal Medicine & Allergy Specialist
207 East 84th, New York, NY 10028
Yorkville Animal Hospital
227 East 84th Street, New York, NY 10028
mid-town east manhattan veterinarians for dogs -
Eastside Veterinary Center
321 E. 52nd Street
306 E. 59th
gramercy park, murray hill manhattan vets for dogs -
410 E. 38th St.
East Bay Animal Clinic
612 2nd Ave 10016-4859
Gramercy Park Animal Hospital
37 E 19th St 10003-1313
Lexington Veterinary Group
133 E 39th St 10011-4101
Midtown Animal Hospital
256 East 33rd Street, New York, NY 10016
Murray Hill Animal Hospital
47 E 30th St #1 10016-7313
Rivergate Veterinary Clinic
403 E 37th St 10016-3204
Veterinary House Calls
410 East 38th Street, New York, NY 10016
east village manhattan vets for dogs -
Cooper Square Veterinary Hospital P C
211 East 5, New York, NY 10003
Lower East Side Veterinary
241 Eldridge, New York, NY 10002
Gotham Animal Clinic
329 2nd Avenue, New York, NY 10003
St Marks Veterinary Hospital
348 E 9th St 10003-7915
204 E 10th St 10003-7702
Washington Sq Animal Hospital
23 E 9th St 10003-5940
upper west side manhattan vets for dogs -
Alternative Veterinary Care
250 West 100th Street, New York, NY 10025
Central Park West Veterinary Group
8 West 86th Street, New York, NY 10024
City Veterinary Care
220 W. 72nd St
Riverside Animal Hospital
250 West 100th Street, New York, NY 10025
Riverside Veterinary Group
219 West 79th Street Apt 1, New York, NY 10024
Symphony Vet Center
698 Amsterdam Avenue Frnt, New York, NY 10025
mid-town west side manhattan vets for dogs -
558 Columbus Ave, New York, NY 10024
Animal General@Lincoln Square
140 West 67th Street, New York, NY 10024
Clinton Veterinary Center
357 W 52nd St 10019-6227
Westside Animal Hospital
733 9th Ave 10019-7201
Should I crate my puppy?
A crate is a wire box appropriately sized for each pup or dog. It can help with housebreaking, calming down, and providing a nice place for them to play with their toys!
Crating a puppy is an individual choice for each family. If you think you want to crate train your puppy, examine the reasons. Will you be able to let your puppy out of the crate every few hours? If not, then an exercise pen with wee wee pads or appropriate elimination area is a better choice. If you can let your puppy out every few hours during work hours, etc., and can provide mental stimulation and adequate exercise, then crating might be for you!
Another consideration you may need to make is introducing the crate to your puppy correctly. Not all puppies are well-suited for crate time right away. The introduction needs to be slow, and fun!
Why does crate training work? Crates are similar to 'dens', an area in which animals like to sleep. Because of this, they are less likely to soil the area. If the area is large, though, the pup or dog may eliminate (bathroom) in a different area than they sleep in. So, the crate needs to be an appropriate size.
What is the right crate size for my puppy? The crate needs to be small enough that a puppy won't find a corner to bathroom in. So, buy a crate with a 'divider' to make the crate small enough. Not too small that the puppy can't lie down though! They need to be able to get up, turn around, and lie down.
Where should I put my puppy's crate? Place the crate in a common room during the day. At night, your puppy might benefit from being in the bedroom.
How do I introduce my puppy to the crate?
For safety, remove collar/tags when crated
Play crate games!
Crate games help your puppy make a good/pleasant association with the new crate. We don't want them to feel scared when inside of it! Dr. Patricia McConnell describes the crate game as follows: Toss treats for your dog into the crate. After your dog will willingly run into the crate to get the treats you've tossed inside, begin to shut the door, but only for a second or two, then open it again. As soon as your dog seems comfortable with this, shut the door a little longer as you feed more treats through the crate door, then release. If your dog is still comfortable, lure your dog into the crate as before with a treat toss, but also have a special surprise waiting in the crate—a Kong stuffed with some of your dogs favorite treats or a sterile beef bone (if he likes these). As soon as your dog gets busy with the Kong or bone, walk away for about 30 seconds. When you return, open the door and remove the Kong or bone. The strategy here is to teach your dog to welcome your temporary absence since your return means the end of munch time. Now gradually begin to increase the time you leave your dog crated with his Kong or bone.
Make sure it is comfortable
Add comfy items like your old T-shirt (that smells like you) or blanket and bed. Your pup should be able to stay in the crate while you sleep (anywhere between 5-8 hours for an 8.5 week old puppy), while you are in the same room doing something else, and while you are not at home. You can also leave toys and chew items inside as long as they cannot choke on the item.
Gradually lengthen the time your pup stays in the crate and gradually begin leaving the room for a few minutes at a time.
When your pup is not inside the crate, leave exciting items inside and shut the door-he can have it when he goes inside!
How to crate train my puppy with a clicker
Training your puppy with treats should take place when your puppy is a little hungry, but not starving. Start tossing treats or toys inside the crate. Or, slowly toss things closer and closer to the crate. Every time your dog runs to eat the treat, Click and toss another treat, each time bringing your dog closer and closer to the whole body being inside the crate. If your puppy gets scared, make treat tosses closer together. And, speedily tossing will work much better than giving breaks. When your puppy finally enters the crate, feed them there for as long as possible encouraging them to stay put. You don't need to click during this (we can call it speed feeding). As soon as your dog expects more treats and looks up at you, Click and treat for longer and longer gaps time. When your dog calmly waits for the click, slightly close but don't latch the door. Continue to Click and treat as the door slowly closes. If your dog can stay inside for around 10 seconds while waiting for a click then close the door. Take one step away, click, walk back and treat. Repeat this step but begin to vary the distance and time that you leave the crate. Don't click and treat if your dog is whining, just wait until they are quiet again.
How to housebreak my puppy with a crate
Make sure your puppy has enough walks, 3 meals a day (after confirming with your veterinarian or breeder), and water throughout each day. It is a good idea to crate your puppy before and after a walk for the first few walks, until the puppy understand to eliminate outside. After your dog gets the idea, always give them free time after they eliminate. This can be around 15-20 minutes for a puppy, and 45 minutes to an hour if older. Then crate them again until their next walk (unless they are napping).
What if my dog doesn't go the bathroom on a walk?
This means you have to put your dog back into the crate for about 15 minutes. Then try again until your dog eliminates. Carry your puppy to and from the crate until you get outside.
As your puppy gets better at going to the bathroom outside, lengthen the amount of free time they get in between crating.
How can a crate help with chewing?
Your crate may help stop your dog's chewing while you aren't around by letting them be in a safe area where they cannot be destructive. And, you can travel with it to help in other homes and hotels, and even cars.
How often should I crate my puppy?
The general rule for crating is (number of months old the puppy is) + 1. So, 2 months = 3 hours. 3 hours is the general maximum for a young puppy. No adult dog should be crated more than 5 hours at a time during the day. At night when you are sleeping they can be crated while they sleep. Don't use the crate punish your puppy, but you can use the crate to calm them if they are acting "overtired" and rambunctious and haven't napped in a few hours.
My dog has separation anxiety. Will crating work?
Some older dogs or dogs with separation anxiety do not respond well to confinement and it can make the problem worse. Don't force them if they seem to experience the same amount or more anxiety.
Cesar Millan uses traditional, old-school punishment and aversive methods to train dogs, that the American Veterinary Society has their own position statement on:
"AVSAB’s position is that punishment
(e.g. choke chains, pinch collars, and electronic
collars) should not be used as a first-line or
early-use treatment for behavior problems. This
is due to the potential adverse effects which
include but are not limited to: inhibition of
learning, increased fear-related and aggressive
behaviors, and injury to animals and people
interacting with animals."
In Cesar's shows, there are some episodes where I have seen him use positive reinforcement training but it is rare. Usually he chokes the dog with their collars to 'calm' them or let them know who's boss, or he kicks them in the ribs to change their mindset. Aversively training any animal results in loss of trust, fear, avoidance behaviors, aggressive responses, and can even make the behavior worse (depending - some dogs may think they are receiving attention for a bad behavior, or they can even become less pain sensitive). here's a study that's more scientific
[http://binalunzer.com/Links_files/aversivestimulation.pdf ]. Training like this on TV makes the general public think that it is OK to do this form of training even if animal is in pain, and families routinely try to 'alpha roll' dogs at home resulting in dangerous confrontations. Oftentimes a family trying to mimic Cesar's training gets in trouble. Don't forget children are watching the show, too.
Positive training can train dogs just as well as punishment training most times. So, why should we use shock collars, kick dogs, and choke dogs? Positive training is safer, effective, and family-friendly. If you do your own on-line search, you will see the wide array of opinions on Cesar - for example see this New York Times article [ http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/31/opinion/31derr.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0 ]. I have seen Cesar use an electric shock collar on the show and not tell the audience, and I have seen dogs pee themselves out of fear on the show as well. He never addresses what's going on at those times; [ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qh9YOyM2TAk ]
There's no arguing that punishment training can work (it has for 75 years), but if there are better methods out there that are just as effective and scientifically proven to be better, we should use them, in my opinion.
Don't you want your dog to look happy when they train?
How do you get your puppy to stop chewing on your things, and start chewing on their own things?
This is one of the most frustrating aspects of being a new parent. Your puppy is not born knowing what to chew and what not to chew. They chew for the first 6 months (approximately!) because they are teething, and it is your responsibility to help them teethe responsibly!
A lot of people try to wait until their puppies 'grow out of it' - but this can be a bad plan, because if your puppy grows up enjoying your shoes, he might just make a habit out of it!
Here are some tips to make sure your puppy is chewing on their own things;
1) *Rotate, rotate, rotate* : Most people buy their dogs plenty of toys, but leave them all in a basket the puppy can get to whenever it wants. This is often boring for a puppy. So, only give your dog access to half its toys at one time. Then switch!
2) Make sure you're not accidentally playing 'chase' with your dog when its chewing on something its not supposed to! Tons of smart puppies learn quickly to get to play chase, all they have to do is grab something that doesn't belong to them !
3) You can use a taste deterrent, but make sure to try them first yourself! Spray the deterrent in the air, and see if makes your entire body taste badly. These sprays can be really noxious and not good for expecting parents, as well as dogs. Some puppies get sick from them.
4) Make sure your puppy has enough great and satisfying chew toys. It's important to distinguish between a chew toy and a regular toy. Get a Kong that you can stuff with peanut butter and freeze it. Anything frozen will soothe teething :)
5) Replace the inappropriate object that your puppy is chewing on and give them an appropriate one - make it more exciting than the other thing and play or interact with the good toy to make sure your puppy gravitates to the new toy in the future!
6) Never punish your puppy for chewing on inappropriate objects after the chewing has been done! Your puppy will not understand that the object is inappropriate - so instead he will be afraid of you!
7) If your puppy is 6 months or older and is still chewing on inappropriate items, you may have more serious issues like like separation anxiety and stress.